Wednesday, August 29, 2012

Raymond Van Winkle


We’re all familiar with Washington Irving’s classic tale of Rip van Winkle, the man who slept for twenty years and awoke to a different world from the one he knew.  When I first read the story as a boy, I thought that some of Irving’s observations were far-fetched.  Now, more than forty years after that reading, I am discovering that he didn’t cover the half of it.  For like his befuddled protagonist, I have also seemingly emerged from an even longer sleep—more than thirty years—to re-engage with a land and family that have undergone significant changes.
When I lived in Colorado, I had contact with my family, but it wasn’t as frequent and regular as it could and should have been.  Oh, there were no quarrels or disagreements that created a hateful silence or unbridgeable schism.  I kept up with my parents and siblings and had a broad understanding of what was going on in their lives.  At the same time, I filled them in on some details of my Colorado life.  Furthermore, I would travel back to Alabama from time to time to see everyone and reconnect.  Then my father died suddenly in 1991 and his death had a profound impact on my extended family.  He was the glue who held things together.  He constantly checked up on kinfolk and not just the ones who lived in Birmingham.  He was a father, uncle, great-uncle and mentor to so many and his death opened a void that nobody filled.
So family members began to drift apart.  My own visits were spaced over wider gaps in time.  My siblings, who had been children when I left, graduated from high school, went to college, got married and became parents themselves.  My mother also returned to work and helped support her grandchildren.  I became the mysterious uncle who lived far away in the West and lived a life beyond the comprehension of most of my extended family.  The years lengthened and changes came; some of them were quite sudden while others were of the slow and gradual kind that overtake one before he is even aware they have transpired.
My arrival last spring has been much like Rip Van Winkle’s awakening and return to his home village.  Before his sleep, he was a colonist and subject of King George III.  He was shocked to learn that now he was a citizen of a new nation and that his loyalty to his former king and country were badly misplaced.  For me, it was the discovery that Alabama had changed somewhat and that my family had new members, young people born during the decades of my absence.  These cousins, nephews and nieces knew little of our family’s history and had their focus on other matters now.  Meeting them and getting to know them has been almost surreal.  I see them and remember when their parents were children.  Or I see them and realize the cousin I knew as a child is now this young boy’s grandfather.
My niece heard me talking about one of her great-grandfathers not too long ago and she wanted to know his name.  This man was my paternal grandfather, but my niece knew nothing about him.  That isn’t too strange because her father, my brother John, had never known either of his grandfathers.  Besides that, our father died years before my niece was even born, so she has little idea of who he was either.
For me, there is still the strangeness of being “Uncle Raymond”.  My brother John was only eleven years old when I moved away.  Now I see his children.  Years ago, the only Uncle Raymond in our family was my father.  Now I have assumed that title and role without the advantage of gradually getting to know these young people.  They have appeared cut out of whole cloth as if by magic.  I know very little about their infancy but am presented with this fully realized child.  I look from the child to the brother or sister who is the parent and I wonder where the years have gone.
Siblings relate their college days and experiences to me.  They talk about getting married and where they spent their honeymoons.  I missed all of that.  I met a young boy not too long ago and upon introducing myself marveled at saying to him, “I’m Raymond and I’m your first cousin twice-removed.  That’s because your great-grandmother and my father were sister and brother, making your grandfather my first cousin.”  Or there is the young girl who came to our house a few weeks ago who is my second cousin twice-removed.  There are also some third cousins of mine lurking around town whom I haven’t run into yet but knew from my previous life here.
Then there are the changes that have occurred in Alabama.  In some ways, the state is as backward and retrograde as it was when I moved here forty years ago.  Southerners are notoriously resistant to change and many are very unhappy with what they see transpiring in the region.  Latinos and Asians are moving into the state, upsetting the demographic balances that have been the norm for decades.  I hear Spanish spoken and see Spanish-language signage in certain establishments making me wonder if I’m in Alabama or back in Colorado sometimes.
My old neighborhood was entirely black when I lived here in the seventies.  Latinos have moved in now, even establishing a Spanish-speaking church just a few blocks from my house.  Old timers grumble about that, saying they want to keep Smithfield and East Thomas black.  The newcomers are regarded with deep suspicion and resentment by some.  I marvel at that, telling my neighbors that whites resisted the integration of their communities in much the same way thirty and forty years ago, and how we should be the last people in the world to adopt that attitude.
It’s not just Latinos who are changing community demographics, either.  Other traditionally black areas are seeing an influx of white folks.  Streets that have not had white residents for seventy years or more are becoming integrated.  Many come because housing is so cheap with a home costing a small fraction of what it would in Denver or Boulder.  In a stunning reversal of roles, some areas are seeing “black flight” as whites return to the city proper and blacks head out to the suburbs and exurbs.
On another front, technological progress is evident everywhere.  From the Marshall Space Flight Center in Huntsville, which was one of the training bases for space shuttle astronauts, to the continually sprawling campus of the University of Alabama in Birmingham, the state has embraced the twenty-first century.  Birmingham’s skyline has new skyscrapers; and upscale lofts and condominiums have appeared in once rundown areas on the south side of town.
Alabama itself seems to be more open, more willing to move forward even if that progress is slow.  I think the newcomers and economic necessity have been the engines of that progress.  Otherwise, I would expect matters to be much the same as they were when I moved away.  I will certainly see and learn more when I finally secure some transportation for myself; and I will travel and see as much of the state as possible.  I don’t doubt there are more surprises waiting for me.
Then there are the things that have remained the same, college football being among these.  The game is the top priority in Alabama.  That was true in the past, and if anything the fervor and intensity its fans display have only increased during my absence.  I’ll go into more detail about that in a future entry but for the moment I will say that fanaticism is not too hard a word to describe what the sport means to Alabamians.
Race relations are about the same as they were in the past, which is something I will examine in greater depth later.  For now I will say that there is an equilibrium between the two major demographic groups—black and white folks—in Alabama.  That’s not to say that the old attitudes don’t exist anymore because they most certainly do.  But they have been driven underground more or less these days.  Many factors have contributed to that, not the least of which is Barack Obama’s election as president.
So I have “awakened” to a different world just as old Rip Van Winkle did.  He had to make adjustments to accommodate the new reality and I must do the same.  Thankfully, I’m being ably assisted by my family and friends.  Without their help, I would be unhappy and dissatisfied.  My biggest problem has been homesickness for Colorado.  Some days are better than others fighting it and my family has patiently listened to my lamentations.  I know I’ll always love Colorado and the West.  The challenge now is making room in my heart for Alabama and the South.

Saturday, August 18, 2012

How Dry I Am


People always talk about the weather but can do nothing about it.  That has always been true and always will, I suppose.  But weather is a fascinating topic for me.  I’ve already talked about some of the differences between Alabama’s weather and climate and Colorado’s.  But after being away for more than thirty years, I had clearly forgotten just how great those differences are.  Now, after being back for four months, I can take a fresh look.
The talk this year has been about the drought that has gripped much of the United States.  The Midwest has been hard hit with many farmers saying they will harvest no corn (maize) this year.  Colorado has been plagued by more than the usual summer forest fires that have destroyed hundreds of homes along the Front Range.  In addition, a severe dry spell has gripped its eastern plains drying up pasturage and forcing ranchers to cut down on the sizes of their herds.  Even in Alabama drought has made its mark, but that mark has been hard for someone like me to see.
In a typical year, my old home of Boulder would receive 18 inches/460 mm of precipitation along with more than 300 sunny days.  The climate is semi-arid and the high elevation of 5430 feet/1655 m accentuates this.  So a drought there was quite pronounced.  The one that came in 2002 was particularly severe and its signature event was a forest fire that burned more than 200,000 acres/80,000 hectares.  We got little snow that winter and the summer monsoon rains did not fall so everyone was urged to conserve as much water as possible until the weather improved.
By contrast, Birmingham receives 54 inches/1380 mm during the year—triple what Boulder would expect.  The drought that has hit the country hasn’t spared Alabama, particularly its easternmost counties, but as I look around town, I see little evidence of it.  The trees are still green and many are blossoming as they should.  Right now, the crepe myrtles are displaying their white and magenta flowers.  The lawns around here are as verdant as ever.
However, summer in the Deep South is nothing like its counterpart in the High Plains and Rocky Mountains of the West.  Both regions can see hot days with temperatures over 100°F/38°C.  Alabama has already had more than half a dozen of those this summer and we’ll have more before the season ends.  We have had a dry spell here as well, but what Alabamians call a dry spell wouldn’t even merit mention by Coloradans.
In Alabama, a week without rain is cause for worry.  People start to complain about how dry it is and they feel the ground and soil becoming hard.  When I returned at the end of March, it took me some time to get used to walking on soft spongy ground with its springy turf.  I didn’t have that luxury in Colorado where the ground was often hard packed and the soil was thin and stony.
So when meteorologists, farmers, gardeners and ordinary folks started talking about the drought in Alabama, I could only shake my head.  So far, Birmingham has seen 28.49 inches/718.57 mm of precipitation this year.  That is 4.66 inches/118.36 mm short of its normal totals for this date.  I tell people here they have no idea of what a real drought is; no idea of what it means to go weeks, even months, with little or no precipitation; no idea of what it means to live under a loud sun in a cloudless sky that turns your soil to stone as it sears and withers crops and gardens.
A few weeks ago when thunderstorms ended a heat wave of four consecutive 100°+F/38°+C days, I was shopping in a market as the lightening flashed and thunder pealed out of the sky.  One of the staff told me how happy he was to see the rain because the “drought” was becoming serious.
“What drought?” I asked.
“Why, the one that has been hitting us over the head this last week!” he exclaimed.  “I mean the weather has been so hot and dry that I couldn’t stand it anymore.  Didn’t you think so?”
I gave him a bitter smile and then said, “I come from a place where 20 inches (510 mm) of precipitation in a year would be cause for celebration and rejoicing.  Y’all get three times the amount of rainfall in a typical year than the folks back home get.  This last heat wave and dry patch would be considered normal there.”
“Where’s ‘back home’?” he asked.
“Boulder, Colorado,” I answered.
His eyes got wide.  “You’ve lived in Cadarada?  (Practically everyone in Alabama says “Colorado” that way.)  Man!  That’s a real beautiful place from everything I’ve seen and heard.  But I didn’t know that about the climate.  Do y’all get a lot of snow there?”
“About 80 inches (2032 mm) in a typical winter,” I said.  “And snow falls from October to April so winter is a fact of life there.  But I loved it and will always remember it fondly.”
That conversation sums up many of the differences between my old home and the new.  When I saw the forest fires ravaging Waldo and Poudre Canyons on TV, I cried.  My family had lots of questions about the fires and the role they play in forest ecology which I was able to answer.  The fires were another vivid example and demonstration that I am now living in a completely different part of the country.  The South is blessed with abundant moisture and in amounts that would astonish Westerners. 
Eastern Alabama has indeed had a dry spell with lost crops and water levels in creeks, rivers and lakes well below normal.  Water problems are easing elsewhere in this state as rainfall has increased significantly lately.  However, much of the South is facing a water crisis.  That is particularly true along the Mississippi River where the Army Corps of Engineers has found it necessary to dredge the river’s bottom in many places to assure that barge traffic will continue to move.  Big sandbars have appeared, halting recreational boating and silting in marinas and docks.
I have learned that drought means different things to people depending on their geography.  In the semi-arid to arid West, Mark Twain’s observation that “whiskey is for drinking and water is for fighting” is still true.  The difference of a few inches can make or break an agricultural year.  Water’s scarcity was the root cause for many of the range wars that were fought in the past; and even today, Western cities quarrel with one another over water rights. 
In the South, while water is much more plentiful, that abundance is offset by the huge population.  A prolonged dry spell can have a drastic impact on the recreational and tourist industries and the many jobs tied in with them, not to mention the effect on agribusiness.  Alabama’s agricultural products are sold all over the world.  Why, I have cousins who farm in north Alabama’s Tennessee River Valley growing soybeans for export to markets in the Far East.  I’m sure the summer rainfall deficit is a matter of serious concern for them.
This year has been a hard one with respect to water over much of the country.  Yes, I’ve laughed at Southerners’ definition of a drought, but that doesn’t mean the anxiety and fear they felt weren’t legitimate.  I’m relearning what water means to different people even in my own country.  A Colorado forest fire ignited by dry lightning is just as disastrous as an Alabama crop being lost to drought.  In both cases, the lack of water has brought pain to many people.

Wednesday, August 15, 2012

20 July 2012


For me, 20 July was a day that seemed to have been lived in the Twilight Zone for that old TV series would have been able to portray what happened in its deft and surrealistic way.
Awaking to the appalling news from Aurora was a terrific shock.  I watched some of the news items on TV for a short time before I had seen and heard enough.  My problem with the TV coverage was that it lacked focus and cogency.  The broadcast producers, anchors and news reporters would seize on any detail and magnify it out of proportion in an effort to fill what otherwise would be dead air time.  That may have kept viewers in front of their screens but didn’t treat the tragedy with the gravity and importance it really deserved.  But in these days of 24/7 news cycles, this is what I’ve come to expect so I turned the TV off and got on the Internet. 
There I got involved in a nasty online debate about the meaning of the disaster.  I took quite a few lumps and dealt out some myself.  I suppose I was angry and wanted to lash out at anybody so I wrote things that were unfair and intemperate.  But I wanted to do something, anything that would help my adopted home state get past another disaster in a summer that has been anything but a good one.  Only the day before, I had e-mailed my Internet correspondents about how homesick I was for Colorado.  Now I found myself wondering if the Colorado I had left behind was perhaps in an alternate universe.  So much had changed in the space of twenty-four hours and a summer that was already a bad one due to monstrous forest fires and withering drought for the state had suddenly become much, much worse.
The Twilight Zone elements manifested themselves in the evening.  One of my cousins was getting married and I attended the wedding.  This cousin was someone I did not know as she had been born and grown up in the years I have been away.  When I was invited to the wedding in April, I had looked forward to the event with joyful anticipation.  Then came the news of the Aurora massacre and suddenly everything took on a completely different perspective.  I talked to some of my friends in Colorado about the murders, e-mailed others, and argued and debated on the Internet with complete strangers, some of whom were very angry with the stance I took and let me know that in no uncertain terms.  The wounds this tragedy opened and re-opened are very raw and won’t heal for a long time.  But after all was cussed and discussed, I still had a wedding to attend.
For my family, it was as though the events in Colorado had not happened at all.  Nobody discussed it except one of my cousins and my mother.  I wondered if any had even heard about what had happened in Aurora.  But I also understood that I was in neither the place nor the time to bring it up.  Our family had gathered to celebrate and affirm life, not to weep and mourn over death and murder.  On my cousin’s wedding day, the topics for conversation were to be ones of joy and love, of reaffirming family ties, and seeing that the newlyweds got off to the best possible start.  So I put on the best face I could and attended the wedding and the reception that followed.  I enjoyed the events and the people I saw.  I told funny stories and heard others related to me.  I got reacquainted with relatives who were very happy to see me and catch up with my undertakings.
But as I took part in the festivities, there was a dark corner of my mind that dwelt on what had happened in Aurora.  Once the shock and numbness wear off, how will the people of Colorado carry on?  The memory of the Columbine massacre has been dredged from its shallow and unquiet grave to haunt the state once more.  Another horrible mass murder has been committed on Colorado soil to be chronicled beside others, and there have been others besides Columbine.  But those others have been relegated to the history books because there are none now alive who remember them.  While I never ruled out the possibility that something like this could happen again in Colorado, I certainly didn’t expect it to recur as soon as it has.
My absence from the state did not soften the blow of Friday’s events.  However, living in Alabama has meant that the coverage has not been as intense as it has been in Colorado.  Besides, Alabama has had to deal with two shooting sprees that have occurred since the start of June.  One left three people dead and three others wounded in the university town of Auburn.  The other, in the college town of Tuscaloosa, saw seventeen injuries but fortunately no deaths.  Dealing with these rampages has left people here little emotional energy for taking on Colorado’s even more grievous tragedy.  The focus will be single-mindedly on Colorado for the next several days and weeks and Alabama will be left to fend for itself.  That is just as well.
I have told everyone how much I look forward to returning to Colorado.  Today’s news has tempered that desire somewhat.  It’s not that I no longer wish to go back as it is that I have been forced to realize that evil can be found anywhere and it can strike anytime.  My cousin reminded me of this truth when we talked about the Aurora situation on Friday afternoon.  He didn’t say that Alabama is a better place than Colorado or that I shouldn’t want to return there.  He simply observed that absolute security is a fantasy and that nobody should feel he is beyond the reach of disaster or tragedy.
I can only hope now that my Colorado family will carry on.  None of the people I know in the state has been directly touched by these murders.  Nobody is planning to abandon it because of what has happened.  I am sure each is trying to sort out what happened and then move on with life.  All I can do is to affirm my own support for them and let them know that I feel their pain in some measure.  At the same time, I want to draw lessons from this and apply them to my own life.  One of them is surely how precious and fragile life is and that I cannot take any day for granted.  Instead I want to get the most out of life, not in hedonistic pursuits, but in appreciating what I have and treasuring it to the greatest extent I can. 
The date 20 July is an important one in history.  It was on this date that Neil Armstrong took his “one small step for [a] man, one giant leap for Mankind” back in 1969 when he became the first man to set foot on the Moon.  And my family will now have a reason to note it as well with the wedding of Paul and my cousin Amber.  I will have to think of these things to offset the blackness of the Aurora massacre.  My Colorado family will also have to find a way to recover and move on.  We were able to do so after the Columbine murders although that is an ongoing thing.  I have confidence we can do the same with this tragedy as well.